getting dressed up for a black or white tie party might be a lot of fun, but it can also be a wardrobe minefield.
How long or short should you go with your dress? What style of jacket should you wear? What exactly is the difference between black tie and white tie?
As you'll have probably gathered from watching period dramas, dressing up in the evening has been popular for centuries, but black and white tie dress codes first came into force in the Edwardian era, when the practice of wearing a waistcoat and black bow tie with a dinner jacket became the default after-dark look. But what are the black and white tie dress code rules?
To save you from turning heads for the wrong reason, we've complied a complete guide for both men and women - with a few shopping ideas thrown in too.
What is a black tie dress code?
Black tie is a formal dress code for a social function that starts after 6pm. The dress code will mean different things for men and women. According to etiquette guide Debrett's , a true black tie outfit for a man will feature a black wool (barathea) or ultra-fine herringbone dinner jacket.
The jacket should be single-breasted or double-breasted with no vents, silk peaked lapels (or a shawl collar) and covered buttons.
White dinner jackets have also been traditionally worn for black tie in hot climates, but not usually in Britain.
Traditional black tie also features a white evening shirt - in Marcella, a slightly stiffer cotton fabric - with a bib detail and double cuffs. The shirt should have a turn-down collar (not a wing-collar) and should be worn with cufflinks.
Black tie trousers should be smart with a natural taper, and (if you're a real black tie purist) a single row of braid down the outside of each leg.
As for the black bow tie itself? Debrett's advises men to select one that's proportionate to head size - to avoid a comedy clown look - and one you make up yourself rather than a 'ready tied' bow tie.
A man's black tie look is usually finished off with a white handkerchief in the left breast pocket and polished black shoes.
Optional pieces of black tie attire include cummerbunds and waistcoats - though the two should never be worn together.
Women tend to have more flexibility with a black tie dress code, though Debrett's advises ladies avoid 'tight ‘red-carpet’ dresses' or 'those with a dramatic split as they can be uncomfortable or inappropriate at a formal event that involves both a reception and a sit-down dinner.'
A dress can be full length or knee-length, but no shorter, and should only reveal a little décolletage. Trousers are another acceptable option for women, but Debretts recommend a palazzo cut, rather than anything too form-fitting.
Costume jewellery or simple bracelets and necklaces are most appropriate, instead of anything too bling (that's apparently reserved for white tie).
Tiaras are also apparently a no-no for black tie (though that's probably not an issue for most of us). Although the dress code is ‘black tie’, dresses do not need to be black, unless explicitly stated on the invitation.
What is a white tie dress code?
White tie has been known as 'full evening dress’, ‘full dress’, ‘evening dress’ or, informally, as ‘tails.’
Before the Second World War, it was the regular evening dress for gentlemen. Today, a white tie dress code is typically reserved for presidential dinners, state dinners with royalty and events like Le Bal Des Debutantes in Paris.
As one of the rarer dress codes you’ll see on an invitation, even celebrities struggle to nail the look. Anna Wintour revealed that many of her 2014 Met Gala male guests barely scraped by, as they were required to wear white tie that year. Speaking on Late Night with Seth Meyers, she said she “had no idea how much panic [the dress code] would make the men of New York and all over the world think about their outfits” and scored her attendees looks on air.
Benedict Cumberbatch that year “nailed it” according to Wintour, and it helped that Cumberbatch was accompanied by designer Tom Ford. Ford, who dressed many male stars that evening, reportedly told Wintour in an email that he had “hundreds of men coming in and asking him to explain what white tie meant” that year.
Unlike black tie, there's very little room for style manoeuvring, as a white tie dress code comes with strict guidelines. Men have to ensure their outfit includes a black, single-breasted tailcoat in black wool (barathea) or ultra-fine herringbone with silk peaked lapels, which is worn unbuttoned, though Wintour added that it’s okay for men to wear dark blue.
The coat is shorter at the front than a morning coat, and is paired with black trousers with a natural taper and two lines of braids down the outside leg.
The white tie shirt is in Marcella (stiff cotton) with a starched detachable wing collar and double cufflinks. The shirt will usually be closed with studs, rather than buttons, though and as Wintour assessed Bradley Cooper’s 2014 Met Gala look, she said he only got it “99.55 right” as white tie studs are typically made of “onyx” - rather than the “mother of pearl” that Cooper opted for.
The shirt is then worn underneath a low-cut, white Marcella evening waistcoat (double or single breasted). To complete your white tie look, wear a thin, white hand-tied Marcella bow tie.
Put your best (Fred Astaire) foot forward in patent black lace-up shoes, worn with black laces (though if you want something really traditional it's black ribbon) and black socks.
If you really want to stray into Downton Abbey territory, you can also add a black top hat, a black overcoat and white silk scarf.
White-tie rules for women are less strict but the main requirement is a full-length ball gown or dress.
According to Debrett's a 'good' ball gown design will feature a fitted bodice with a full-skirt which reaches the ground.
Traditionally, long gloves have also been worn by women at white tie balls, but over time have become less of a requirement.
Gloves should be worn on arrival at an event or in a receiving line (shaking hands with the host) and dancing.
They are supposed to be removed when eating and at the dinner table - no-one likes a red wine spillage.
Shop the look
Black tie suits
Prada Two Button Virgin Wool Blend Tuxedo
This sleek black suit is the epitome of a classic tux, with silk peak lapels and a sharp tailored cut.
£2,410 | MATCHESFASHION.COM | Buy it now
Burberry English Fit Monogram Wool Blend Jacquard Tuxedo
Burberry’s brand new monogram makes an appearance with this subtle black suit, which will quickly establish you as the most fashion forward man in the room.
£2,625 | Harvey Nichols | Buy it now
Gieves & Hawkes Marcella Tailored-Fit Cotton Dinner Shirt
If you're going to invest in one white shirt, it should be this one. Beloved by royalty and celebrities, this London brand's shirt features double cuffs and mother of pearl buttons.
£145 | Selfridges | Buy it now
Tateossian Murex Shell Cufflinks with an Oxidised Finish
These shell cufflinks are an unusual yet utterly stylish choice for those looking for something a little different.
£159 | Tateossian | Buy it now
Berluti Alessandro Edge Leather Derby Shoes
Who said men’s footwear had to be boring? These Berluti derby shoes feature a steel square toe cap, which has been split in two for graphic interest.
£2,157 | Matches Fashion | Buy it now
Black tie dresses
Kitri Constance Midi Dress
You can never go wrong with a bit of sparkle over the holiday season. This high necked dress is a more pared back take on the trend with metallic stripes and a waist flattering tie.
£165 | Kitri | Buy it now
Molly Goddard Pearl Shirred Tulle Midi Dress
This dress was one of the most talked about pieces at fashion week just gone and ideal for putting Villanelle to shame.
£1,800 | NET-A-PORTER | Buy it now
GHOST London Sydney Dress
Velvet is always a winner in the autumn/winter months and this stunner by Ghost is a great shout. Featuring a sweetheart neckline and button detail, the real highlight is that it’s all business in the front and party in the back as it’s backless.
£245 | Ghost | Buy it now
Cult Gaia Alia 50 Glitter Mules
Cult Gaia have updated their classic Alia style for the season with a glittery new look.
£320 | Farfetch | Buy it now
The party bag edit
White tie suits
New & Lingwood Black Wool Morning Coat
It’s not easy to find a morning coat online and after some digging, we found this classic piece.
£695 | The Rake | Buy it now
Gucci Pre-Tied Silk-Grosgrain Bow Tie
Take the fuss out of tying a bow yourself with this textured white pre-tied version from Gucci.
£120 | Mr Porter | Buy it now
Ralph Lauren Purple Label White Wing-Collar Bib-Front Double-Cuff Cotton Tuxedo Shirt
Crafted in Italy, this dress shirt is of exquisite quality and features the traditional wing collar, bib and double cuff closure.
£480 | Harrods | Buy it now
Montblanc Sartorial Cufflinks
These silver cufflinks are a timeless classic - the epitome of understated sophistication.
£260 | Montblanc | Buy it now
Tom Ford Elkan Evening Lace Ups
These glossy Oxfords are from the virtuoso of menswear himself: Tom Ford.
£890 | Tom Ford | Buy it now
White Tie Dresses
Huishan Zhang Alma Feather-Trimmed Sequinned Tulle Gown
The feathered sleeves on this sequinned gown takes this sparkler into glamorous territory. It sadly can’t be seen here, but the dress actually is two-toned and is completely covered with white and silver sequins on the back to make a real statement.
£1,960 | Selfridges | Buy it now
Rosie Assoulin Ups and Downs Asymmetric Gown
Buttery yellows made a massive splash at autumn/winter fashion week just gone and this asymmetric Rosie Assoulin gown is right on the money. With puff sleeves and a full skirt, it’s the ideal dress to sweep across the dance floor in.
£1,980 | Farfetch | Buy it now
Lee Matthews Rayne Polka-dot Organza Maxi Dress
We’re all about puff sleeves this season and this Lee Matthews dress is nothing short of a modern fairytale. Featuring polkadots in a sheer fabric, the black trim adds is the perfect punch of interest to round off the sophisticated look.
£770 | NET-A-PORTER | Buy it now
Rosantica Rea Embellished Bucket Bag
Pearls are everywhere this season and this Rosantica bucket is one of the more creative takes on the trend.
£788 | LuisaViaRoma | Buy it now
Roger Vivier I Love Vivier Pumps
You can never go wrong with a black heel, especially these cute ones with a little widow's peak.
£465 | Roger Vivier | Buy it now
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